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Here is my latest try at building a breakfast nook table for my wife’s Valentine gift. It is a combination of two table designs, Shanty 2 Chic (plans) and Ana White, with slight modification to size so it fits better in our nook. Kudos to these two very talented ladies!
If you are looking to fit both of these together, please keep close attention to the different cut lengths posted here. These instructions were written after the fact so my pictures may seem a little jumbled up. You know what they say, hindsight is 20-20. I Hope ya’ll like it~
Please read through the entire project and all comments before starting this project; plan ahead. Making preparations for safe and efficient work will prevent a lot of headache. Find a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris and purchase/use straight boards (otherwise you will have to use a planer to level them). Check for square after each step and always predrill holes before attaching with screws. To make wood bonds strong, use glue with finish nails. Wipe or scrape away any excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not stain. These tips should help you keep safe and having fun doing your own projects~
List of tools:
1-1/4″ Pocket hole screws coarse (Kreg Jig)
2-1/2″ Pocket hole screws coarse (Kreg Jig)
1-1/4″ Brad nails
2″ Brad nails
As the drying process for this takes a while, I suggest building the tabletop and decorative arches first.
Cut the 1×6 pine board to length and start building the tabletop using your Kreg Jig and wood glue. Use plenty of clamps to ensure straight edges and wipe off any glue from the top side so that it will correctly stain. Set this to the side on a flat surface. I did this over a few days because I did not have enough clamps to put everything together.
Tip: Clamping the pieces to a long mdf board or wood with paper in between will allow you to make sure the top will not bend during the clamping process.
To make the decorative arch pieces, cut 16 square pieces from your 1×8 common board. Use a compass or circle large enough to make the outline of the arch. After this piece is cut using the band saw or scroll saw, use it as a template to make the outline for all other pieces. Once cut, glue each piece together to make 8 arches. Sand these down to make it look like the two pieces are one.
Build the center post by cutting your 2×3 and 2×6 to length. Use glue and brad nails to form it and put it to the side.
Cut your 2×6 to length and secure together using glue and brad nails. Once all four of these legs are together, first cut the 30 degree angle and then the 45 degree. If your saw allows for it, you can cut the 22.5 deg to form the nice slope. As written in the other instructions, accuracy on this isn’t too important but repeatability is.
Once you have the four legs assembled, cut the 1×6 common board to length and attach via glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.
Set the legs down on the floor after drilling holes using the Kreg Jig. You will want to drill the holes in the middle of the top (minimum 2″ from the side to make sure it gets covered) and wide on the bottom side to really secure them to the middle post. To ensure they are level when attaching, you can use any 3/4″ wood scrap to hold it up.
Build the top support base out of 2×6 wood and attach to the top of the center support. Cut four 2×6 to length for the decorative piece. Make the 45 deg on your saw to get the slope and attach using the Kreg Jig/screws and glue.
Cut the 1×4 common boards to length. Take the 8-1/2″ piece, center it, and attach vertically using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Follow this up with the 7-3/4″ piece, centered, glued and nailed using 1-1/4″ brad nails. Do this for all eight sections.
Center and attach the decorative arches built in Step 2 using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails to your support column.
At this point the table top should be ready to sand and cut into your octagon shape. Cut the edges using the circular saw and guide, making sure the edges are straight when drawing the 45 degree lines as well. Measure after marking to make sure it is square and like the image below. Once you cut the table top, you can go over it with a router to give it rounded edges. This is optional.
Cut to fit your 2×2 pine for the table top trim. Use the 22.5 degree setting on the miter saw to have edges meet perfectly. Prep the underside of the table where the trim will meet it as there may be some glue or unevenness that can create gaps. Once done, attach the trim to the underside of the tabletop using 1-1/4″ brad nails and glue.
Fill in all of the gaps using wood filler, caulk, or spackle. I used a combination of all of them although the caulk and spackle worked best for me (use wood filler for the table top so that it can be stained).
Sand down everything according to the painting or staining instructions and until you feel confident that once it’s all done it will look like the $1000+ version!
Once you are sure all surfaces are clean and debris free, prime and paint or wood condition, stain, and add protective coating.
Tip: Use rollers when available for streak free paint and use foam applicators for the polyurethane coating. Try not to sand between coats of stain but you are allowed to sand between coats of polyurethane. Make sure you use high grit (220 or higher) sand paper when you do this. We are giving the table top two coats of the Varathane polyurethane~
Once the paint and protective coating is dry, put the bottom and table top together using small angle brackets.
Give us your thoughts on this project! Also feel free to ask any questions and we’ll try to get back to you.